Alexandria once boasted two of seven of the Wonders of the World, the great library and the lighthouse, but both have been destroyed. The stone from the lighthouse was used to build Fort Qaitbay overlooking the harbor. The fort provides a excellent view out to sea and back towards the city. Inside is a collection of coins and artifacts recovered from the French fleet sunk nearby by Admiral Nelson, dashing Napoleon’s dreams of conquering the Middle East and India. In the harbor beneath the fort Alexandria’s brightly painted fishing fleet bobs at anchor. If you look closely you many see charms protecting against the evil eye painted on the sides of the boats, often in the showing an eye being stabbed with a spear.
Downtown is a very well preserved small theater from the late Roman Empire. Look for a small circular stone on the stage – if you stand here and speak your declamation will be amplified by the well-designed acoustics. There are several excellent Greek and Roman tomb complexes scattered throughout the city. The extensive multi-level catacombs of Kom el Shoqafa are the most fascinating. The tomb was built by Romans who had adopted some elements of traditional Egyptian religion; Roman style reliefs show mummification scenes, while Egyptian guardian gods are dressed in the armor of Roman legionnaires. The eclectic style is a remarkable testament to the cultural diversity of the city during the classical period. Don’t bother trying to lift the lids of the sarcophagi?they are actually the same piece of stone as the rest of the coffins; the bodies were inserted through hidden passages behind the wall. Nearby is the famous “Pompey’s Pillar,” a massive red marble column. It was misnamed by crusaders who thought it was a monument to the famous Roman general, murdered in Egypt after being defeated by Julius Caesar. It actually dates from the reign of the Roman emperor Diocletian, and was dedicated to his mercy after he spared the city after an unsuccessful rebellion.
